After last summer’s Greek adventure, I was looking forward to heading back to the Greek Islands all year! This year we headed to three islands in the Cyclades: Folegandros, Sifnos, and Serifos. Luckily, I had Anastasios (a Greek!) who more than knows his way around the Greek Isles! I was so excited to explore some other islands in the Aegean with him – sides of the Greek Islands I had never seen before! We got to experience the quaintness of Folegandros, the beauty of Sifnos, and the sunsets in Serifos!
Believe it or not, Mykonos and Santorini are not the only two Greek island destinations in the Aegean! The cluster of islands we visited was located in the Cyclades – probably the most popular and iconic of the Greek islands! I found a pretty helpful map that lays out all the Greek Islands and their groupings – I inserted it below!
The food was incredible throughout this trip, it was top-notch! While Greek food can have its decadent offerings (fried feta with honey – my Achilles heel) most of the cuisine is simple and fresh ingredients. After nearly two and a half weeks in Greece, I still didn’t get tired of the fresh Greek Salads and amazing mezze dips! To get to all of these islands in the Cyclades, you can book a ferry from Athens, then from island to Island! We took a total of 6 ferries on our trip and it was definitely the easiest way to travel — for sure. They are all quite punctual and have snacks or drinks on board! Transportation, once you get to each of the islands, differs. I’d recommend renting a car in Folegandros, Sifnos & Serifos. While these are smaller islands, it’s still helpful to reach most of the beaches and navigate the islands by car! You can look into renting a car in Athens and taking it via ferry to the islands, but we found it was most cost-effective to just rent a car on each island!
FOLEGANDROS:
About a 3-and-a-half-hour ferry ride from Athens, and a 4-hour ferry ride to/from Serifos or Sifnos.
This island might of been my favorite of the trip! Folegandros is a quaint and quiet island that’s littered with hidden gems, wonderful food, and beautiful beaches! Its dramatic cliffs meet the Aegean Sea, providing a stunning backdrop. Chora, the island’s main town, is a charming labyrinth of white-washed buildings and narrow streets, giving you an authentic Greek island experience! Folegandros is perfect if you’re seeking a slower pace, with opportunities to enjoy local cuisine at tavernas and discover secluded coves accessible by foot or boat. Most of the beaches do require a 5-10 minute hike or a boat ride to reach. We rented our car from EVO Car Rental Folegandros!
If you’re only in Folegandros for a few days, I’d definitely grab lunch a Papagali Folegandros and dinner at Ktima Paliomilos Winery, Eva’s Garden, or To Barbounaki! And for late-night, be sure to grab a drink at BaRaki!
To Eat:
- *Papalagi Folegandros – his was our favorite lunch on the island! Perched above Agios Nikolaos Beach, it serves Greek staples and fresh seafood with an incredible view
- To reach it, you can take a water taxi to/from Agkali Beach (every 30 minutes) for 5€/ or take a scenic hike that’s about a 15-minute walk!
- Sinadisi – A tiny, family-run taverna in Ano Meria that’s been around since 1920. Come for traditional, home-cooked Greek dishes and a wonderfully old-school Folegandros experience.
- *Ktima Paliomilos Winery – By far my favorite dinner on the island—the charming vineyard setting, incredible food and wine, and laid-back atmosphere made it feel like we’d been transported to Tuscany! We loved it so much we came back the next night for wine at sunset, and it’s conveniently just a few minutes’ walk from the main Chora parking lot.
- Irini – This beloved, old-school taverna in Ano Meria was temporarily closed during our visit, but it came highly recommended for authentic, home-style Folegandros cooking.
- Spitiko – A charming, casual taverna tucked beneath the trees serving hearty Greek comfort food. It’s exactly the kind of unfussy, local spot you hope to stumble upon on a Greek island!
- *Eva’s Garden – Tucked away from Chora’s main square, this quaint restaurant has a gorgeous garden patio that makes for a romantic dinner setting. Be sure to order the chicken roll—it was one of my favorite things we ate on the island!
- Pounta – A charming little café in Chora that’s perfect for a quick coffee or casual breakfast. Grab a table outside and ease into the morning before exploring the island!
- Mimi’s – A cute and welcoming Greek taverna just outside Chora serving traditional, home-style dishes in a relaxed setting. A great choice when you want something casual and local!
- Tuk Tuk Thai Spirit House – When you need a break from Greek food, this colorful little Thai spot is such a fun change of pace. Expect flavorful Thai dishes, cocktails and a festive atmosphere!
- *To Barbounaki– A cute, chic seafood restaurant that’s perfect for a slightly more elevated dinner on the island. Expect fresh fish and seafood with a modern Cycladic feel!
- Souvlaki Club – A no-frills souvlaki shop in Chora that’s perfect for a quick, inexpensive lunch. Grab a gyro or skewers and get right back to exploring!
- *Taverna Agios Nikolaos – With tables literally in the sand at Agios Nikolaos Beach, this is Greek-island lunching at its best—we loved the sardines, taramasalata and dakos salad!
- You can take a water taxi to/from Agkali Beach (every 30 minutes) for 5€/ or take a scenic hike that’s about a 15-minute walk!
- Griglia – A super-casual late-night spot serving some of the best-rated souvlaki on the island. Perfect for a gyro after a few drinks in Chora!
- Chrisospilia Honey Coffee & Shop – A great little roadside stop outside Chora for coffee, local honey and baked goods. If you’re heading north toward the beaches, it’s definitely worth popping in along the way!
- Prickly Pear – When the post-dinner sweet tooth hits, head here for freshly made crepes and other sweet treats. A perfect late-night stop while wandering around Chora!
- Under the Palm Tree – A laid-back little spot serving delicious breakfast and brunch outside Chora. It’s especially convenient for fueling up before heading to the beaches farther north!
To Drink:
- *BaRaki – Meaning “little bar,” this was my favorite bar on the island! We stopped by here nearly every night! They have a really great DJ playing chill house music and the vibe is fantastic!
- Parasagas – Café featuring coffee, smoothies, and cocktails!
- *Beez Cocktail Bar – Lively cocktail bar!
- Kafe Kastro – Serving up coffee by day, and drinks at night!
To Do:
- Walk up the hill to the Church of Panagia (‘Virgin Mary’) – It’s about a 20-minute walk up to the church. The views at sunset are incredible, breathtaking, and quite romantic! It’s so worth doing one night while you’re there!
- Take an evening stroll through Chora
- Go snorkeling at Katergo Beach
- Take a Scuba Diving lesson
- Beaches:
- Agios Nikolaos Beach – best for lunch at the taverna or Paplagli!
- Agali Beach
- Galifos Beach (nude beach)
- Paralia Livadi
- Paralia Ampeli – This might of been my favorite beach on the island!
- Katergo Beach – Take a 10-minute water taxi to this beach, leave on the hour, every hour. It’s €10!
To Stay:
- *Anemi (Karavostasi) – One of the more elevated stays on Folegandros, Anemi pairs sleek Cycladic design with a gorgeous pool and laid-back atmosphere. Its location near the port also makes it an easy base for exploring the island!
- *Vrahos Boutique Hotel (Karavostasi) – This is where we stayed and we absolutely loved it—the hotel is charming, clean and incredibly picturesque, with the sweetest, most helpful staff! It’s right by the port and only about a five-minute drive from Chora, making it a super-convenient home base.
- Blue Sand Boutique (Agali) -A dreamy little boutique hotel perched directly above beautiful Agali Beach, with whitewashed Cycladic interiors and incredible views over the Aegean. Perfect if your priority is waking up steps from one of the island’s best beaches!
- Onar Suites (Karavostasi) – An intimate collection of stylish Cycladic suites overlooking the sea near Karavostasi. It’s a peaceful, romantic option with beautiful Aegean views and easy access to the port and nearby beaches.
SERIFOS
A ferry ride from Athens to Serifos is about 3 hours. It’s a 30-minute ferry to/from Sifnos and about 4 hours from Folegandros.
Serifos is a remote destination, yet to be discovered by mass visitors, so it is perfect for laid-back vacations in Greece, away from the hustle and bustle! Both Chora, the capital town, and the island’s villages have been built according to the traditional Cycladic architecture, so expect to see whitewashed houses, painted streets, and traditional windmills galore! Chora, in particular, is considered one of the most picturesque capitals in the Cyclades! Perched on the slopes of a hill, the beautiful town has a breathtaking view of the Aegean Sea, which makes it a wonderful spot for sunset gazing!
If you’re only in Serifos for a few days, you’ve got to have dinner at Seriani, Rizes, Kalis, and Aloni! And be sure to party at Yacht Club Serifos for late-night! Most everything is situated in the island’s Chora, but I’ve noted if it’s located in Port Livadia or elsewhere! Also, we rented our car from RentMe Serifos!
To Eat:
- *Rizes – Set at the beautiful Rizes Hotel, this is a great spot for elevated Greek and Mediterranean cuisine with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. The gorgeous setting and views make it especially lovely for a sunset dinner!
- Marathoriza – A wonderfully traditional taverna serving hearty, home-cooked Serifian and Greek specialties. Come here for an authentic taste of the island and the kind of simple, local cooking that Greece does best!
- *Seriani – One of my favorite meals on Serifos—and possibly the entire trip! This adorable spot in Chora serves incredible modern Greek food; the octopus and Greek salad were fabulous, but the spanakopita salad was mind-blowing—I was still talking about it days later!
- Nikolas Beach Tavern – A wonderfully laid-back seaside taverna at Platis Gialos that’s perfect for a long Greek lunch by the water. Expect fresh seafood, classic Greek dishes and an effortlessly casual island atmosphere.
- *Aloni – A beautiful restaurant perched above Livadi with panoramic views over the port and Aegean. Come around sunset for traditional Greek flavors and one of the prettiest dinner settings on the island!
- *Kalis Seafood Restaurant (Port Livadia) – A longtime waterfront favorite in Livadi specializing in fresh fish and seafood. Grab a table by the water, order a spread of meze and whatever fish is freshest that day, and settle in for a leisurely dinner!
- Plakes – A charming traditional spot in Chora serving classic Greek dishes in a relaxed, quintessentially Cycladic setting. It’s a great option for an unfussy dinner after wandering through Chora’s winding streets.
- Porto Vecchio (Port Livadia) – A casual waterfront option in Livadi serving Italian favorites, including pizza and pasta. Perfect when you need a little break from Greek food after a few days on the island!
- Chill & Co. (Port Livadia) – A stylish all-day spot along the Livadi waterfront that’s great for everything from breakfast and coffee to cocktails and casual bites. It’s an easy place to settle into at pretty much any time of day!
- Stou Stratou – Set in one of Chora’s picturesque squares, this charming café-restaurant is perfect for breakfast, a casual bite or an evening drink. Grab a table outside and enjoy some of the best people-watching on Serifos!
- Tootsie (Port Livadia) – A fun, casual spot in Livadi for burgers, sandwiches and other easy comfort-food favorites. Great for a quick lunch or when you’re craving something other than traditional Greek fare!
Drinks:
- Yacht Club Serifos (Port Lividi) – This seemingly chill bar in the port turns into a fun after party after 2 a.m. with dancing until 4 a.m.!
- Barbarosa – This Greek staple is always a fun time! This restaurant turns up after midnight!
- Gaidaros – This very fun cocktail bar is situated in the walkway of the Chora- with everyone sitting out enjoying their drinks for a great vibe!
- Thidira – Chill bar located in the Chora square
- Vatraxos – Situated at the base of Chora, this cocktail bar is a great place to enjoy a chill drink and people-watch at night!
To Do:
- Sunset wine tasting at Chrysoloras Winery
- Rent a boat for a day!
- Hike the mining trails “Bridge to Nowhere”
- Take a ferry to visit Sifnos for the day – visit the island churches (120!)
- Catching the sunset at Kastro must!
- Beaches:
- Psili Ammos – Rated the best beach in Europe! With fine sand, accessible by road, with gradual sea depth increase, and has a really good beachside taverna!
- Agios Sostis – Named after the church of Agios Sostis, which sits alongside, this sandy beach is accessible by road and is considered one of the most beautiful beaches in Serifos.
- Vagia – Accessible by road, soft sand and fairly popular
- Ganema – One of the larger beaches, accessible by road, white pebbles and sand, gradual sea depth increase
- Koutalas – Right next to Ganemas
- Lia – The island’s nudist beach!
- Kalo Livadi – about a 20-minute hike to the beach
- Maliadiko beach
- Shop:
- 100% Greek (Chora)
- Kerameio Studio – Beautiful ceramics shop
To Stay:
- Pende Suites – These boutique suits are luxurious and laid-back. Tucked right behind the Port Lividi, the 5-bedroom hotel is quaint and contemporary!
- Chill & Co. Serifos – A stylish, new hotel concept in the heart of Serifos’ Port Lividi. With panoramic sea views and a great location! They’ve got a modern cafe, restaurant, and cocktail bar at the base of this hotel!
- Rizes – One of the most beautiful hotels on the island! It overlooks the port and offers amazing views of the Chora and surrounding beaches. The design is minimalistic and respectful of the surroundings and the architecture of the Cycladic islands.
- Coco-Mat Eco Residences – Located in the lovely Vagia beach, Coco-Mat is comprised of 13 miner’s houses. Boasting views of the sea, this quiet
SIFNOS
About a 2.5-hour ferry ride from Athens or a 30-minute ferry to/from Serifos.
Sifnos is one of the quieter, and yet somehow most enchanting islands in the Cyclades. Whitewashed villages sit atop the island’s spine, connected by rustic foot trails between them. Below the string of villages are olive terraces, almond trees, and ridges rich with herbs and wildflowers. And lying below that bays, harbors, and sparkly blue water!
To Eat:
- Cafe Mosaic – A cute, laid-back spot next to Panagia Kochi church serving a great selection of tapas and Greek meze. Perfect for ordering a bunch of plates to share with friends!
- To Chrysso – A charming Sifnos taverna for traditional Greek and local island specialties in a relaxed setting. A great choice when you’re looking for simple, authentic Sifnian cooking!
- Manoli – An old-school seaside taverna that’s been serving beautifully simple Greek food for decades. Herbs and vegetables come straight from the owner’s garden, while the fresh catch is brought in by local fishermen!
- *Omega 3 – One of the island’s musts for seafood, serving creative small plates like sea bream ceviche and decadent seafood risotto right by the water. It’s perfect for a long lunch, but definitely make a reservation!
- Cheronissos Fish Tavern – A quintessential Greek fish taverna tucked away in the tiny bay of Cheronissos at the northern tip of Sifnos. Come for fresh seafood and a long, lazy lunch practically on the water!
- Rabagas – Tucked into a beautiful garden in the heart of Apollonia, Rabagas is a gorgeous spot for dinner and drinks. The menu puts a creative spin on Greek and Mediterranean flavors, and the atmosphere is especially lovely at night!
- Theodorou’s Sweet Shop – An old-school Sifnos sweet shop that’s perfect for picking up traditional island treats. Be sure to try the amygdalota, the soft almond sweets that Sifnos is especially known for!
To Drink:
- Kavos Sunrise – A quirky, laid-back bar in Kastro with incredible Aegean views, strong cocktails and a fun, anything-goes island vibe.
- O Drakakis – A beloved little spot in Apollonia that’s perfect for local wine, meze and a lively start to a night out on the island.
- Botzi – A buzzy cocktail bar in Apollonia that’s great for late-night drinks, music and soaking up Sifnos’ summer nightlife.
To Do:
- See Artemonas, the pretty village known as the ‘Jewel of Sifnos’
- Explore Exambela village
- Visit Kostas Depastas – Traditional potters carry on the ancient traditions of Grecian pottery!
Stay:
- Verina Astra/Suites/Villa – A collection of beautifully designed boutique stays that blend understated Cycladic style with incredible Sifnos scenery. Verina Astra is the standout for its dramatic Aegean views, while the Suites and Villa offer equally stylish options depending on the kind of stay you’re after.
- Kamaroti – A peaceful, design-forward hideaway surrounded by olive trees and Mediterranean gardens. It feels intimate and secluded, making it perfect for a quiet, slow-paced Sifnos escape.
- NOS hotel & Villa – A gorgeous luxury retreat overlooking Faros, blending traditional Sifnian architecture with sleek, contemporary design. With beautiful sea views, a pool and an elevated, serene atmosphere, it’s one of the island’s chicest stays.
Have you ventured to any Greek Islands yet? If you want to see more than Mykonos & Santorini, I’d highly recommend these beautiful smaller islands in the Cyclades like Folegandros, Serifos and Sifnos! They each offer something totally different, yet you’ll get the full Greek experience on each island in its own little way. I definitely can’t wait to return to Greece and explore a few more islands – if you have any favorites, let me know!
Stay Risky,
– John
