City Guide: Capri + Positano

Italy is a country renowned for its beauty and charm, from the rolling hills of Tuscany to the romantic canals of Venice. Two places that should be on every traveler’s bucket list are the picturesque island of Capri and the colorful seaside village of Positano. Located in the southern region of Campania, these two destinations offer stunning views, delicious food, and a chance to relax and unwind!

Capri is an island located in the Gulf of Naples and is accessible by ferry from Naples or Sorrento. The island is famous for its natural beauty and luxury shopping. When you arrive in Capri, the first thing you should do is take a chairlift to the top of Monte Solaro. From here, you can enjoy breathtaking views of the island and the surrounding sea. Next, visit the Blue Grotto, a sea cave with crystal-clear blue water. You can only access it by boat, but it’s worth the trip.

After exploring the natural beauty of the island, it’s time to indulge in some luxury shopping. Capri is known for its designer boutiques, and you can find everything from Prada to Gucci. Take a stroll down Via Camerelle, the main shopping street, and explore the many high-end stores. When it comes to dining, Capri offers a variety of options. For a romantic dinner, head to Da Paolino, a restaurant located in a lemon grove. The lemon trees create a magical atmosphere, and the food is excellent. If you’re looking for something more casual, try the seafood at Ristorante il Riccio. The restaurant is located on a cliff and offers spectacular views of the sea.

Capri

How to get there: To get to Capri, you can take a ferry from Almafi, Capri, Castellammare, Ischia, Napoli, Positano, Pozzuoli, Procida, Salerno, or Sorrento. the island of Capri has and a higher section of the island called Anacapri, it’s accessible by taxi, or you can ride the gondola up for a scenic experience!

To Eat:

• *Da Gelsomina – (on Anacapri!) Hands down my favorite dinner spot on the island – it’s a local favorite! Make reservations and the restaurant will have to come to pick you up in a little cart because the roads are so tight and step to get there. I recommend grabbing a sunset drink at Hotel Caesar Augustus, and having them pick you up from there!
• Villa Verde – Located right in the middle of the Island, this restaurant is immersed in a luxurious and beautiful garden!
• Da Giorgio – Since 1948, Ristorante Da Giorgio has been known for its excellent local cuisine made with fresh ingredients and traditional recipes, all served on the terrace overlooking the sea on warm island summer nights.
• Ristorante La Fontelina –  This restaurant on anticapri is ideal for lunch to take advantage of their Beach Club. Iconic!
• *Conca del Sogno –  A must for lunch. Have to take a boat to get here!
• Restaurant Al Caprì – Located a few yards from the Piazzetta, the Al Caprì restaurant has a modern and informal bistro located in the open air overlooking the sea.
• Da Luigi ai Faraglioni – Iconic beach club that is worth going to in the morning and sticking around for lunch!

To Drink:

• J.K. Place –  This hotel is a top-notch stay overlooking the harbor. The dinner was an experience, but would be ideal to go at sunset to enjoy their house specialty, an Aperol Spritz on the terrace!
• *Hotel Caesar Augustus – (on Anacapri) An absolute must for afternoon/sunset drinks. The views from the terrace overlooking Capri are simply stunning.
• Taverna Anema e Core – Fun underground club
• The Piazzetta – Favorite place to grab drinks in the town square and people watch!

To Do:

• Boat rental – This is a must.
  • Grotta Azzurra
  • Eat lunch at Conca del Sogno
• Hang at the Fontelina Beach Club
• Explore the ruins of a grand Roman palace at Villa Jovis
• Take bus up to Anacapri –
• Hike to see the Archo Naturale
• Walk along the Via Kruup in the Augustus Gardens
• Chiesa di San Michele Arcangelo
• Visit the Villa San Michele Museum
• Explore the Parco Filosofico in Ana Capri
• Scenic sunset at the lighthouse of Faro di Punta Carena

Stay:

• Capri Wine Hotel – Run by a lovely couple that combined two of their passions, wine & hospitality, they opened this boutique hotel in 2013. The grounds overlook the gulf, there’s a garden, and the whole hotel has a quaint feel. It’s a 10-minute walk to the town square – it’s hilly though, so bring comfy shoes!
• Grand Hotel Quisisana – An old (built in the mid-1800s) and famous Capri spot, this hotel is what Italian dreams are made of. There’s an old-world charm, a beautiful pool, and people watching you cannot be beaten. Lots of shopping and stores around this area, too. This is a good place to stay if you want something lively with lots of Italian history.
• La Minerva – This smaller hotel is an upscale option and is known for its beautiful property and relaxing vibes.  If you’re looking for luxury and maybe something romantic – even though all of Capri feels romantic, it would be a great spot
• Airbnb – Always a great option, if that’s more your style!

Positano:

How to get there: if you’re coming from Capri, you can take a ferry directly to Positano! If you’re coming from Naples, your best option is hiring a private driver (which should be anywhere between 110-160 euros). You should be able to contact the place you’re staying and ask them to book it for you or find something online. If you’re traveling from Sorrento (the other side of the peninsula), you can either take the “SITA” bus (8 euros) or get a private car if you’ve got too much luggage to mess with (70 euros).

To Eat:

• *Ristorante Max – Great traditional Italian in a charming atmosphere, if it’s not too hot, ask to sit outside on the patio!
• *Da Vincenzo – Grandpa Vincenzo founded the inn over 50 years ago and today, the nephew with the same name has taken the helm himself. The dishes on the menu, varying depending on market and fish market availability, still maintain the unmistakable imprint of old-fashioned home cooking. Make a reservation for this spot at least 3 days in advance and ask to sit outside on the OTHER side of the street (so you’ll have a view of the town and ocean)
• da Gabrisa – Loved everything about this place and this view was amazing, but the best part is that it’s a little out of the way of all the chaos so it’s got a more intimate and less-touristy setting (but still has a view). Go before it gets dark so you can watch the sunset from your dinner table! And be sure you’re able to sit at one of the tables outside if possible!
• Bruno – Local cuisine, from seafood to classic pastas! Try and snag a spot outside with a view!
• *La Sponda at Le Sirenuse Hotel – Check to see if you can dine here without being a guest! But I’d recommend coming for sunset drinks and staying through dinner on the terrace!
• *Da Gabrisa – Gorgeous spot serving upscale local favorites!  The inside is beautiful, but their outside seats are located on the edge
• Latteria Mini Market – For quick goods, this place was just down the road from us and came in clutch! I loved the little hack I would do here: get their coffee-flavored ice cream and ask them for an espresso on top – it was such a great move!

To Drink:

• *Franco’s (part of Le Sirenuse Hotel) – even if you’re not staying here, it’s worth making a reservation and going for sunset drinks and/or dinner. Incredible views and where you want to be!
• *The Terrace bar at Hotel Il San Pietro di Positano – A must for sunset drinks. It’s an 8-minute drive east of Positano, and had great views on the terrace looking back at the city!
• Music on the Rocks – Full-on club with a great outdoor area looking back over the city

To Do:

• Play a few matches of tennis at Tennis al Settimo Piano Positano
• Rent a private boat
  • Go have lunch and enjoy the beach at Da Alfo
  • More touristy, but could go to Bagni d’Arienzo Beach Club for lunch & beach as well
• Spend a day at the beach!
• Or hike to a more private beach, Spiaggia Fornillo!
• Hike the Path of the Gods – This is a popular hike that is about 3 hours long. You’ll need to take a bus to the trailhead! We kind of hacked this hike, and just did the good part! What a friend and I did was walk from Positano to the end of the hike, and then go up the back-way. It’s much shorter to reach the rock formation that everybody takes a photo at, then we turned around!

Stay:

• Hotel Polzaao Murat – Set in an 18th-century palazzo surrounded by botanical gardens, this palatial hotel is a 5-minute walk from a sandy beach
• Villa Franca – The 5-star Hotel Villa Franca features stunning views of the sea and of Positano from its hilltop position. Offering 2 restaurants, it also comes with an outdoor pool, a spa, and a bar. Free shuttle rides to/from the town center are available.
• *Le Sirenuse – Le Sirenuse is a charming family-owned hotel located in the heart of Positano. Opened in 1951 by the Sersale family who converted their summer house into a hotel with 12 rooms. The hotel has grown since then with the acquisitions of two neighboring houses to 59 rooms and suites.
• *Airbnb – I ended up staying in an Airbnb and it was a wonderful experience!

 

Stay Risky,

– John